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We have run out of picture space on Nathan´s page, so please continue to follow our journey on Allen´s page at:

http://ajk.travellerspoint.com

Made it into Burgos last night. No sleep the night before. I woke up to a rainy and dark sky and to say the least was not feeling it. Nathan gave me a look of reassurance and like we don´t really have a choice. So there we are making our way out of Santo Domingo and the winds begin to blow hard. Now, I´m not that heavy and the winds were blowing me around a bit, so I had to really steady myself and concentrate which was so difficult because I had not slept. This state of mind added something to the dreamlike landscape I was now slowly making my way through. Open planes, a quiet road, all alone. Out of nowhere I freaked, there was literally a hand on my shoulder! It was Fritz! A 58 year old Holland man whom we had run into now and again along the way, he bicycled right along side for a good while, shielding the wind until I regained my strength. For the next 12 miles Fritz, Nathan, and I rode together, chatted, drank wine, ate dark chocolate and made our way. The wind no longer really bothered me as now there was a new challenge in my path. My right leg began to ache intensely...

Yesterday, we rode from Los Arcos to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a day which was marked yet again by the weather, this day however was the day of the wind and the semi-truck. The wind blew in our faces all day long, which itself made for a long slow day of riding, but throw on top of that the N120 highway which we rode on all day, with Semi-Trucks passing you at 100km/hr and it made for a very entertaining day.

Then with only 15km left to go, it became quite evident that I was bound for a pilgrim´s entry into Santo Domingo. I broke a spoke on my rear wheel, which is not in and of itself debilitating, but marks the need for a bike shop when we get to Burgos today unless I am to face a total collapse of the rear wheel after spokes break one by one. Then the chain slipped, again minor. Then the rear tire came up with a sizeable gash causing the tube to be exposed and so the tire blew up, again, not a big deal, however in replacing the tube my pump broke, so Allen said he would carry it for me. So the tire replaced and once again on the road, not 1km into the ride the tube blows again, it is now evident that I need to replace the entire tire as well as the tube, so Allen and I decide he will continue on to Santo Domingo, only 2km, and get a place to stay for us while I change the tire and the tube. After an epic struggle getting the new tire and tube to become friends, it hit me...Allen still has my pump, so, a 2km walk into Santo Domingo, perhaps a proper entry for a pilgrim on the way to Santiago...

Still to me it seems as if none of these factors are very much of a distraction at all, the countryside is so beautiful, and I am enjoying the life of a vagrant so much. There is something liberating about riding down the side of a highway in a torrential downpour or a devastating headwind. After dealing with all of these things, pain, wind, rain, never ending mountains, angry mountain goats, it seems as if part of this trip, part of the journey is to overcome fear, breaking out of those traditional bonds that we hide behind or that prevent us from truly realizing our potential. I wouldn´t change a thing...although maybe next time I will carry my own pump

Innoculation. To avoid getting the plague, one minor shot in the arm is usually sufficient. To avoid an overcrowding of Pilgrims in the refugios one dose of the Pyrenees.

We have often said that no amount of preparation could have prepared us for the multi-state bar exam multiple choice questions, well no amount of training could have prepared 2 out of shape, aging lawyers for the climb through the Pyrenees mountains.

From St. Jean Pied de Port it was an 18 mile ride gaining nearly 3,300 feet in elevation, suffice it to say as far as bike rides go, it made for a nice walk. With St. Jean still in view we quickly realized that we stood no chance tilting at this windmill, and began to push our bikes up the steep ascent. After 7 miles of pushing and riding (very very small stretches) the road ended and the reign of the Devil´s long horned mountain goat began. We were forced to push our bikes uphill through grass, rock, gravel, dirt, and mud (just like grandpa always said). When we finally reached the top and Roncesvalles, our shelter for the night, was in sight, the Devil reared his ugly head yet again. The rain and wind began to wip, Allen went momentarily insane (something about hating Nathan), Nathan cursed the Gods, and we began the most tretcherous descent into Roncesvalles imaginable. Pushing was no longer the appropriate description, more like defying gravity as our heavily ladden bicycles dragged us down the mountainside through rock, gravel, grass, and rain. Just as we began to imagine the inumerable, dangers that lurked in that forest, Roncesvalles revealed itself.
9 hours later, the Pyrenees had allowed us to escape with our lives if not our egos.

If our flight plans weren´t interesting enough, the ensuing train ride to St. Jean Pied de Port was the icing on the cake...so when does the Camino begin...

From Bordeaux to Dax to Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port (the intended starting point of our journey), only took four trains, 6 hours, some harried train to train transitions which we quickly mastered, and one very angry french train conductor whom we could not understand despite being told 3 times something about our bikes (we ignored him), we met Tilli and Buddha.

Tilli (our first Camino Angel), her husband, and her dog Buddha had been walking the camino for 57 days from Belgium when Tilli began to have an irregular heart beat in Bergerac where doctors informed her that she would have to take at least a week off. Tilli trained to St. Jean Pied de Port to wait for her husband who continued on foot. Tilli´s wish for us "I hope you meet yourselves"

After being uncerimoniously dumped off of RyanAir into the 1 room airport in Bergerac France, and discovering that no taxi was avaiable into town with our bike boxes, we realized that we had our own means of transportation. We put our bikes together to the tune of some french song sung by 6 French Soldiers and a bar maid (who gave us ice cold water for the ride to come). We began our moonlite ride into the unknown, and then before our eyes, a beacon in the darkness...we turned right

August, 18, 2006
Leaving for Spain in less than one month I wanted to write down a few of my values. I am curious to see whether by the time we arrive in Santiago, these will change, become obsolete, deepen, expand, etc.

1. Life is short and constantly changing. No two moments are ever the same (Heraclites) even though it sometimes feels like it. Remembering this, I am more present, more loving, and more attentive to what is in front of me. I am more thankful for the people, actions, places, and things that nourish my life.

2. Education. Not for passing tests and grabbing degrees, but for discovering an individual’s needs, talents, and developing his/her potential for not only economic success, but for happiness of the soul, personal fulfillment, civic life, family life, and meaningful work.

3. Humor and Inquiry. Sometimes I get emotional, anxious, and worried. I’ll deal with this by remembering that everything can be made into something funny. By staying aware that some feelings do not make the whole person, and recognizing the negative emotions within me. I will gently question the source, (e.g., why do I feel this way? What’s going on in this area of my life that is making me feel anxious, afraid, etc.) I will continue to question until genuine insight appears. I will take action in response to the insight.

4. Dogma really bothers me. Unscientific belief, meaning for me, belief that is not based on a well reasoned process, to a large extent proven, tested, genuinely examined, such beliefs, specifically when they are used by the powerful to oppress the powerless, make me sad and angry. I will work to dispel superstitious thinking, lies, and all things reactionary.

5. Balance. Making the time and doing work for the development of my values is well worth it. I don’t just value work/career, or just value my romantic partner(Natasha), or just value plans for the future, or just value this present moment, or just value health( for me it’s Aikido, and bicycling) or just value study, or just value...
What I really value is the tremendous effort it takes to connect all of these diverse realities harmoniously, and sometimes the reality is that it’s not so harmonious. But that is my goal, to make my life into a well-balanced wheel, my heart and mind the hub, each value a spoke. (The ‘inner’ tube is light and full of air, the tire is thick, tough, and can take the long ride.)

6. Integrity. I will be honest, straightforward, and when I make a mistake, I’ll correct it. If I’m challenged, I’ll take a good hard look at myself, at the situation, and I will do my best to take the most thoughtful course of action. I will not rationalize my mistakes; I will not stress myself for a defense that cannot stand on its own.

7. Hard Work. During normal work hours (8-6pm) for the most part, I shall work constantly, be active, both physically and mentally. That means concentration and plenty of meditation ( e.g. moments to stop. Breathe. Stretch. Take a walk. Relax the thinking mechanism, live from the spirit!)

8. Community. If I’m not for myself, who will be? If I’m only for myself, what kind of man am I? If not now, when? (Rabbi Hillel) I will do my best to see other people as sisters and brothers. I will do my best to reflect on whom they are, where they are coming from, (their thoughts, feelings, ways of seeing, etc.) I will make room for the ordinary as well as the extraordinary. I will make room for the feelings of people. I will not judge people.

9. Health. Life can be miserably hard. It helps when your body is strong and when your mind is clear and balanced.

10. Endurance. I once held a dish with the inscription on the bottom side, “Endure Furth.” Furth is my mother’s maiden name, was my grandpa Al’s name. To survive life’s challenges with your dignity not but a little harmed, that means everything.

Allen Korenstein (Warrior Poet)